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A History Of The Dressing Gown
The English word 'robe' is taken from the middle English word of the same name meaning 'garment', the word 'robe' has its routes in the Frankish language as 'rouba'. It is thought to have originated with the meaning of 'booty' or 'spoils' referring to items and clothing stolen and related to the word 'rob'. The word was adopted by the Old French language to originally refer to the same 'booty' or 'spoils' however the meaning has evolved to the present day to now refer to 'a woman's dress.'
The point of distinction between a robe and similar items such as a cloak and cape are its sleeves.
Although commonly done, the dressing gown should no be confused with the housecoat, this was a very popular item of attire in the 1940s. Also known as a duster, the house coat was a very useful garment; it was longer in length than an apron and more modest in coverage than a pinafore. At a time when women would rarely leave their houses without looking their absolute best the housecoat was the perfect way to protect the chosen outfit of the day, women would simply switch into their housecoat to perform their daily chores.
Housecoats varied in style but were usually knee length or longer to cover any under garments,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], they were made from a light fabric which was sometimes quilted for warmth. The housecoat would fasten at the front with either buttons or a zipper.
The use of the housecoat evolved over time, becoming more elegant,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], sophisticated and feminine in form, many women started to wear their housecoats in the evenings, even when hosting guests,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], the housecoat took on a similar role to the male 'dressing gown'.
In recent times the housecoat has become a rather dated term that is rarely used. Most people prefer to adapt the term dressing gown as unisex for both male and female house robes.
The History of the Dressing Gown
It is thought that the wearing of a dressing gown in the western world has its routes in the mid 17th Century, it was originally only worn by men and it was called the 'banyan'. The term 'banyan' encompassed many different styles of robes that were popular amongst men between the mid 17th to the early 19th Century.
Europeans began to adopt dress style and influences from other cultures in the eary 17th Century and the banyan is the earliest example of this. It is thought that men adopted the 'banyan' design from Persian and Asian inspired clothing (Banyan in Portugese, Arabic and Gujarati all meaning 'merchant').
At the time of the mid 17th century a popular penchant for the exotic and oriental had become a mainstream fascination in Europe. This coincided, and could be attributed to, strengthened trade routes with the East. The Chinoiserie style emerged as a popular fashion. This French term meaning "Chineseesque" has since become a recurring theme in European artistic styles. Chinoiserie reflects Chinese artistic influences. This penchant for the exotic and oriental was a leading influence on the success of the 'banyan', this name being predecessor to the 'dressing gown'.
Also described in texts as a morning gown,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], robe de chambre or nightgown, the banyan was a loose floor length robe. The style of the banyan in the 1800s was a simple 'Tshape' kimonostyle design as seen below. Banyans were usually produced from imported Indian Chintz fabric although they were sometimes made from Chinese and French silks too.
The banyan was worn around the home as an informal coat it was most commonly worn over the shirt and breeches. The banyan was usually paired with a soft, turbanlike cap that was worn in place of the formal periwig, a very popular wig worn by men at the time of the 17th and 18th centuries. During the 18th century it was fashionable for men, particularly of an intellectual of philosophical persuasion to have their portraits commissioned and to be painted whilst wearing their banyans or morning gowns:
'Loose dresses contribute to the easy and vigorous exercise of the faculties of the mind. This remark is so obvious, and so generally known, that we find studious men are always painted in gowns, when they are seated in their libraries.'
(Benjamin Rush,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Founding Father of the United States. 'franklin and Friends',[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], 2006)
Later the banyan evolved into a more fitted style with setin sleeves similar to a man's coat. The banyan was made available in many different lengths and shapes with different cuts and styles. After the 19th century, the name of the 'banyan' also evolved to become the 'dressing gown' of today.
Whilst men in Europe were quick to adopt and incorporate Asian and Asian inspired textiles and garments it was not until the late 18th Century that women's fashion would be influenced. At this time it was a small accent such as a shawl or fan and it would be a further 100 years until women in Europe would begin wearing clothing from other cultures such as the kimono and Chinese robe.
There is little mention in history books of women wearing robes although we do know that they did indeed wear an equivalent of the dressing gown although it was much simpler in style and fabric to the mans banyan. In his study of the Nineteenth Century French Bourgeoisie style Philippe Perrot observed:
'The dressing gown constituted a curious split between men and women. Men were dazzling and women were drab.'
('Fashioning the Bourgeoisie' by Philippe Perrot, 1981)
Perhaps this 'drabness' explains why there is little written in the history books of style and fashion to chronicle the female dressing gown. This lack of historical interest in the female equivalent of the dressing gown continues in the history books until the 19th Century. Fortunately things have changed and ladies now have an abundance of beautiful, opulent dressing gowns to chose from. Davinia takes her inspiration from the feminine elegance of the 1950s twinned with the colour and vibrancy of the 1960s and 70s. This unique fusion results in truly individual pieces that combine effortless glamour with practical comfort.
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