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Milan Fashion Week

 
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PostPosted: Thu 0:40, 29 Aug 2013    Post subject: Milan Fashion Week

Milan Fashion Week
But that is changing. On the opening day of Milan Fashion Week, on Wednesday, Giorgio Armani, Donatella Versace, Domenico Dolce, Stefano Gabbana, Roberto Cavalli and Diesel's Renzo Russo,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], were among the industry's top guns who attended a major initiative, "A New Generation of Designers".
The event was held in the 18th century Palazzo Morando, part of the Museum of Milan. It was hosted by Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of American Vogue, a key player in the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund scheme in New York which has boosted the careers of Alexander Wang,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Jason Wu and Prabal Gurung, among others; and her Italian counterpart, Franca Sozzani.
Italian Vogue's Sozzani has been hugely influential in establishing "Who's On Next", an Italian version of London Fashion Week's NewGen scheme, which is run in conjunction with Altaroma, and which has been lurking backstage for six years.
But last night, Milan's potential new stars were given front-row billing as Planet Fashion's heavyweights wandered through an exhibition set up in the courtyards and colonnaded galleries of this historic palazzo. It showcased the bold ideas which will inject new energy into a city where the style focus has long remained on the major, well-established luxury brands.
Anna Wintour visited every stand, chatting with the winner of the Who's On Next 2010 title, the Istanbul-born, Erkan Coruh,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], whose organic,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], tie-and-drape designs were shown on rustic wooden hangers; the young Canadian shoemaker, Jerome C. Rousseau, one of the finalists, who trained at London's Cordwainers, and is already selling to Saks 5th Avenue,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and Harvey Nichols; and the Australian, Gail Sorronda,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], another finalist,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], who specializes in 'haute gothic',[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], strong-shouldered looks, in monochrome mesh and stretch. Giorgio Armani was deep in conversation with the American-Honduran,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Silvia Arguello,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], whose label, 'Rosa Clandestino', is an eclectic, feminine interpretation of different cultures. Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce visited with Elisa Palomino, the Spanish girl, who is a Central St Martins graduate, worked for John Galliano,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and has already shown in New York.
I was particularly drawn to the lush, hand-crafted silks of Alessandra Torella, from Naples, and Santo Costanzo,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], from Sicily,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], whose 'Bragia' collection features experimental hand-dyeing techniques; and Claudio Montias Milano, an Argentinian, whose folkloric,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], wrap-and-tie sandals are inspired by the Gaucho, and whose sculptured heels have a sharp, industrial feel.
Raw-edge and directional, romantic and visionary, striking and startling,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], the lovingly-designed stands of clothes, shoes, bags and belts were each a small capsule of creativity shining like a beacon of hope.
The evening was part of a city-wide project,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], "Milan Loves Fashion", initiated by the Mayor, Letizia Moratti, which will encompass exhibitions of art,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], sculpture,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], film screenings and public fashion shows, during the catwalk season. The Who's On Next exhibition,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], for example, will be open to the public in the Piazza Duomo this Sunday.
Meanwhile, the Dolce Gabbana duo take the movement even further this Friday when they throw open the doors of their major store on via della Spiga to thrusting young talent. In a special area,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], decorated with funky, wooden crates, shoppers will be able to buy the creations of more than 25 young designers, including Elisa Palomino and Erkan Coruh.
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