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'Mad Men' costumes prone to continue '60s
- As soon as "Mad Men" debuted, the stylized AMC drama about the men and women who operate in Madison Avenue advertising within the 1960s is a tastemaker favourite.
A stable parade of Betty, Peggy and Joan look-alikes have appeared about the catwalks as designers interpreted their favourite looks from the early '60s. But the years have marched on in season 5, mimicking the short evolution of favor in that decade.
Viewers can likely expect skirts to be a little shorter and eyelashes to be thicker when the new season premieres March 25. Psychedelic colours and patterns could be coming into fashion too.
The nipped-waist, full-skirt, almost petticoated silhouette that introduced the female characters in season 1,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], set in 1960, would predict touch using what was happening on the planet just a few years later. After Jackie Kennedy started stepping out in more body-conscious sheath dresses and looser shifts, everyone did. And also the collective eye was adapting to the minis introduced working in london by designer Mary Quant that were making their way across the Atlantic once the show left off last season in 1965.
For males,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], change likely will not be as obvious,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], but through the mid-'60s its not all shirt needed to be white and not all haircuts were buzzed above the ears. Thank the Beatles as well as their mop-top haircuts for that.
"The world was changing incredibly fast then," says Scott F. Stoddart, dean of liberal arts at Manhattan's Fashion Institute of Technology. "It starts in the '60s, and the '70s were just like packed - it had been a trajectory. Things slowed down a little within the '80s, that have been actually more conservative,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], more like the '50s once the whole decade looked exactly the same."
Culturally, beatniks were becoming mods,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], rock 'n' roll was establishing itself, and the move from stockings to pantyhose - and eventual bra-burning - all influenced mid-'60s fashion. It'll all probably mean a great deal to upwardly mobile Peggy Olson, who started off wearing matronly clothes when she was Don Draper's secretary but is a feminist at heart, says Stoddart, who wrote "Analyzing Mad Men: Critical Essays on the Television Series."
He's most thinking about the style evolution of Draper's daughter, Sally,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], who will be in middle school in suburbia, which eventually turns into a hub of change with girls wearing dungarees.
Sally, he admits that, is "a rebel within the making."
Which was the norm for adolescents and teens,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], who adopted Lyndon Johnson's daughters his or her style role models in a manner that Jackie Kennedy have been for his or her mothers. "They were hipper,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych]," Stoddart explains. "They were parting their head of hair in the centre."
Don Draper probably will not like that one bit on Sally, Stoddart observes, because for those his smoking, drinking and womanizing, he's more conservative than a single would think. He notes an earlier episode in the series where Don wasn't pleased at all to determine then-wife Betty in a bikini.
"If you look at the whole decade, from 1960 to 1970, you've still got many people who weren't changing, but the younger people were pushing fashion inside a completely different direction," agrees Janie Bryant, the show's costume designer.
The character is important towards the costume, Bryant says. The retro moment largely credited to "Mad Men" - and bringing back styles she personally loves - is icing about the cake.
"It's amazing in my experience the way the fashion continues to be this huge explosion," she says. "I'm telling the story of the characters through the clothes, but it is not about a 'fashion show,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych],' and I think this is exactly why people are so excited."
Peggy,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], who works her in place to her own office at the ad agency,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], is definitely anyone to watch,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Bryant says, because she understands that her wardrobe is definitely an expression of herself. The others also express themselves through their clothes,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], but don't always realize it, she says.
"Betty Draper Francis - her roots are becoming an adult in the 1950s,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], so she's always a bit updated '50s, and that says a lot. . She likes you appearances more than she does fashion. She likes the look of perfection."
And for Joan, who always liked the tighter cut anyway, could start showing an appreciation for that richer, more luxurious fabrics which were becoming popular.
The polish that comes with the "Mad Men" look resonates with consumers at this time,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], says Banana Republic creative director Simon Kneen,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], who has collaborated with Bryant on "Mad Men"-themed collections. The second batch of styles is within stores now.
While you might not do the matching bag and shoe that Betty wears, the chicest women nowadays will certainly pay attention to choosing a complementary bag or shoe. "It's not about being eclectic right now," he says.
What was nice about women in the workplace then, and it's similar right now,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], is they weren't attempting to be men, Kneen says. Even as women in pantsuits take hold within the later '60s, it wasn't within an oversized manly shape, although that will become more popular years later.
Men's office attire was fairly consistent with the '60s, whilst they broke out some coloured shirts, FIT's Stoddart says. On their behalf, the bigger change was the "silly wide tie" that arrived the '70s. Still, he says,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], a few of the ad world's younger executives might start wearing high-collar Nehru jackets and there will be more sideburns and beards. "You will see flickers of change," he predicts.
Bette davis dictated many beauty trends of the '60s. As she switched from red lips and flawless skin to dramatic eyes and pearlized, pale-pink lips, so did most women, says celebrity makeup artist Agostina.
Models Twiggy and Jean Shrimpton further modernized (actually mod-ized) Taylor's "Cleopatra" look for everyday,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], she explained, and ladies bought easy-to-use makeup kits that told them how to do everything.
"Models then became the idols. Everyone wanted to seem like these models . these were the rebels for any little while,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and extremely set a dark tone. They'd a great impact in a short amount of time."
It's a "double-edged nostalgia" that's bringing everything back, says Stoddart. "It's people who remember, 'Oh, after i was young - If only we're able to go back to that simpler time,' after which it's with the younger generation - at FIT, 'Mad Men' is extremely well-liked by students. I wondered why, but it's an extremely naughty era, and that's what they like. . It's things they cannot do.".
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