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Alexander McQueen piles on the lovely bones
Reporting from Milan -- Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2010 men collection plumbed a few of the same icy depths as his Spring/Summer 2010 women collection,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], referencing the pace of technological change, melting polar ice caps along with other seismic cultural shifts.
McQueen called it "An bailitheoir cnámh," (a Gaelic phrase which means "the bone collector") and based the collection on the lives of the seafaring folk who dwell in the harsh conditions close to the South and north poles -- the ends of the world.
The result was trompe l ice-print shirts, melting-ice jacquards on wool-silk suits and water-droplet jacquards on leather. Mohair suits, leather parkas, bags and gloves were printed to appear like they occurred from fur.
McQueen signature passion for skulls was in evidence, manifesting itself in a
repeating photo-realistic print pattern that evoked the neatly stacked piles of bones found
in underground catacombs. That same print was adopted to paper the ground and some from the pillars in the venue, which heightened the macabre feeling.
But the main recurring motif was twisted interconnectedness, through Celtic knot patterns and chain-mail prints on felt,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], cashmere and leather coats, a pattern that extended into footwear and bags as well.
Despite citing the rugged knitwear of the hardy fishermen as inspiration for the collection, there was just one actual chunky cable-knit sweater to grace the runway,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], a voluminous gray knitwear piece with a detachable fur-trimmed explorer hood.
it had been enough -- particularly when one considers the legendary origins from the cable-knit designs, and also the immense cable-knit skull and crossbones across the torso. Apparently,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], the storyline goes, back in the day,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], each fisherman might have a unique design to his sweater to ensure that when bodies that had been swept to sea later washed ashore unrecognizable, they may be returned for their families for proper burial. (So remember, dead men tell no tales, however their clothes speak volumes.)
The repeating pattern, along with the predominantly gray-black color scheme and rounded shoulder line on some shirts and jackets, gave some of the models a vaguely reptilian look, like deadly hooded cobras.
Following the show, some attendees could be heard kvetching that the show wasn as much as McQueen usual production values,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], however i disagree. Just like a large amount of what was on the Milan men runway now,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], McQueen Fall/Winter collection was delivered in perhaps a more subdued manner than in the past (last season --- which was shown in a presentation format -- included a looping video clip of a man wandering around an abandoned insane asylum and smearing the walls with his own excrement), but as a showcase for his considerable talents and technical abilities, it got the point across.
-- Adam Tschorn
Photos: Alexander McQueen Fall / Winter 2010 men runway
More from Milan Fashion Week
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Photos: At top, looks from the Alexander McQueen men Fall/Winter 2010 runway collection, shown on Jan. 18,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], 2010, during Milan Fashion Week. Center, close-up detail of a catacomb-inspired print that appeared on suits, shoes and the floor of the venue (click to enlarge). Bottom,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], close-up detail of the pant leg and shoe bearing a looping chain-link print,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], part of the collection recurring motif of interconnectedness. Credit: Peter Stigter / For that Los Angeles Times
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