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A Q with designer Carol Ramsey,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych]
With regards to television costumes as fashion inspiration, "Magic City," Mitch Glazer's new show occur Miami Beach in 1959 that premieres Friday on Starz, has the potential to function as the next "Mad Men" or "Boardwalk Empire."
The show centers around the glamorous Miramar Playa Hotel, where the call girls dress to the nines. By day, it's cha-cha lessons and mahjong by the pool. By night, the Kennedys, the mob, the CIA and Frank Sinatra all hold court. Hotel owner Ike Evans (Jeffrey Dean Morgan) is the man using the dream. His wife Vera Evans, an old showgirl (Olga Kurylenko), and his three children think he's honorable, but he sells his soul to mob boss Ben "The Butcher" Diamond (Danny Huston) to invest in the operation.
I chatted with costume designer Carol Ramsey ("Meet the Fockers," "Horrible Bosses") by what she says was "a dream job" designing looks for beauty queens,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], sharp-dressed ladies men and the seedier that comes out during the night.
How's style important to this show?
We dressed over 600 people head-to-toe every nine days, including period undergarments, belts to complement the shoes and purses. It had been the costume Olympics. However i had a great crew to help. in costume design is driven through the script and the characters. As well as in this show, a lot of the characters are impelled by fashion. It occurs inside a grand hotel,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], the Miramar Playa, so things are inspired by look of that. We took direction from Morris Lapidus' architecture [he designed Beach Fontainebleau Hotel],[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], which came through just like a freight train within the 1960s.
What were some of your source materials?
My inspiration originated from old Vogue and Vanity Fair magazines. A couture approach was important. These people had the cash to possess things customized. I got a chance to take a look at some original Dior pieces in the mid- from the vintage store C. Madeleine's in Miami, including a magenta cocktail dress which was all hand-sewn.
For the suits, I checked out Men's Apparel magazine from the mid-1950s. I organized everything into notebooks, with sections broken down by type of garment. So each time we needed guidance, or to see how a heel was, we'd it. And it wasn't just an academic exercise. It's important in shows such as this to stay in the period. And once you're grounded, you can take liberties.
It had been surprising how risqué some of the pieces are for 1959, that skimpy white bikini for instance.
We'd lots of discussion about this bikini. In my reference books, I had sections on the good girls and also the bad girls in mention of the swimsuits and lingerie. Bikinis were available then on the Riviera, and they were worn by pinups and Bettie Paige types. You could buy them in Europe. I have source material, a photograph of the Playboy Bunny in a string bikini on the beach in the Fontainebleau. A certain girl would wear might it would be Lily Diamond (Jessica Marais).
As the face from the hotel,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Vera (Kurylenko) would never do this. Each time she leaves her apartment, she's to become fully dressed,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], making up. Because the wife of Ike,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], she's to create an impression. Among my favorite looks is really a yellow play-suit she's deteriorating by the pool playing mahjong with the ladies. She gets a phone call and has to visit inside so she puts about this wonderful chevron striped cover-up (top photo). lot of these costume choices were character things.
Did you make all the costumes?
When you're on this type of great amount of costumes, it's important to apply certain real vintage stuff to convey the time realistically,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], especially because it so difficult to duplicate period fabrics. We rented a lot from Western Costume, Palace Costume and Film Costume Corp. from the bags and shoes we could buy. We also made a number of from the costumes, and that i had my very own tailor shop on set with three cutters.
We made all the uniforms for that hotel, which are cream and gold and black to coordinate with the lobby. We made swimsuits and gowns. In Episode 2, there is a Miss Galaxy beauty pageant, so we made 30 identical swimsuits out of tissue lamé.
The green gown Vera (Kurylenko) wears at the conclusion of the first episode (pictured above), is piece de resistance. like pink-and-black squiggle dress,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], with matching black gloves, belt and shoe worn by Lily (Marais).
Another favorite is outrageous, low-cut sheath made from silver metallic discs (pictured below) worn by Judi Silver (Elena Satine), who's a phone call girl. (In those times,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], there have been call girls who paid the hotels to rent stools at the bar.) was challenging figure out what the hookers need to look like. They weren't so overtly sexy in those days, towards the modern eye they wouldn't look like hookers. And then we made most of her clothes lower-cut and tighter. And there is evidence from photos of Claudia Cardinale and Anita Eckberg throughout the 1950s and of this sort of look.
In Season 2, I want to experiment more with making lingerie and swimwear,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], which is a whole other world. The current stuff doesn't quite fit the show; and the vintage stuff, all the bra cups are cracked and crumbling or even the elastic is giving out.
How have you get the men's suits right?
I get a whole rack of suits from the period, and we tried them about the actors. We'd the tailor Dennis Kim from Los Angeles, who makes most of the high-end men's suits for movies,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], dealing with us. We'd look at various facets of each suit that we liked, like the width of the shoulder from this one, the sleeve or lapel of that one. We discovered within our experimentation how big the collars needed to be,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and the way to deal with French cuffs on the slim sleeved shirts of times. We made the majority of the suits and shirts, except for the guayaberas, which we've got in Miami.
The 1950s are having a moment in fashion for spring, as seen about the runways at Prada and elsewhere. Was that the inspiration at all?
Not so much. I am a designer also it was more fun that i can get it done myself. But hopefully, some of the costumes will resonate in the real world. I would like to do something like the "Mad Men" collection Janie Bryant did for Banana Republic.
Photos, from top: Vera Evans (Olga Kurylenko) in "Magic City"; Lily Diamond (Jessica Marais); Vera (Kurylenko); Lily Diamond (Jessica Marais); Judi Silver (Elena Satine); Danny Evans,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], from left,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], (Christian Cooke), Ike Evans (Jeffrey Dean Morgan) and Stevie Evans (Steven Strait). Credit: Starz.
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